The Curious Traveler's Guide to Smithfield, London's Forgotten Neighborhood (2024)

The Curious Traveler’s guide takes you today to Smithfield, near Clerkenwell, in the City of London – one of London’s secret neighborhoods, filled with history and incredible architectural gems.

In this new series, in which I will share with you London’s hidden gems, from Bethnal Green to Spitalfields, I am planning to focus on the aesthetic and historic side of the city.

If you’ve been here before, you already know I am fond of everything pertaining to the past, which is why I share my time between Rome, Italy, and London, and the latter is filled with secret courtyards, old streets and gorgeous churches.

Today, let’s focus on the beautiful neighborhood of Smithfield, with lots of new secret places to add to your bucket list!

The Curious Traveler’s Guide to Smithfield, London’s Forgotten Neighborhood

The Smithfield neighborhood is steeped in history, and has been a trading and commerce site since the Middle Ages – we’re actually here in one of the oldest areas of London.

Famous for its meat market, its church and the Charterhouse, one of London’s most beautiful buildings, Smithfield was also featured in many a literary work, from Dickens to Shakespeare.

Which is why, if you would love to follow a bookish itinerary in London, you should include Smithfield on your list!

The Smithfield area is also close to Clerkenwell, Barbican, Holborn and Chancery Lane, other places where you will find many free historical sites to visit – places you shouldn’t miss for the world.

And if history and architecture are two fields you are keen on learning more about, another place I would also recommend, oh so warmly, is Fleet Street with its myriad of hidden gems.

For now, let’s embark on a very aesthetic walk around the Smithfield neighborhood!

Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: The Old Red Cow Pub

While the Old Red Cow on Long Lane was only reopened in 2021, its spot as an inn has been secured since the Middle Ages.

With its red and black color scheme, the Old Red Cow contrasts with the rest of the other gorgeous buildings lining the street, and the small alley on the side leads us to many other hidden gems.

The pub is pretty small, with a rustic decor that will make any history lover happy they’ve come across it, if only to travel back in time for a moment.

Read: The Prettiest Places for Nature in London

Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: East Passage and Historic Streets

Behind the Old Red Cow pub, a walk of a few seconds brings us to East Passage, Middle Street, and the Hand and Shears pub, another one of London’s beautiful pubs.

Cobblestone streets, which, for many, have retained their medieval narrowness, give an impressive insight into London’s past, which is something very fascinating, especially if you are used to hanging around Covent Garden and Oxford Street.

Many secret alleys can be found around Middle Street and East Passage, and some of them will bring us to some of Smithfield’s most beautiful highlights.

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Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: Bartholomew Passage

The first of these is Bartholomew Passage, a small alley lined with Georgian buildings, with a straight view on one side of St Bartholomew the Great church and its back garden.

For whoever loves finding places like look like really cute villages in London, Bartholomew Passage and the surrounding houses will be a blast – do not miss the iron wrought gates and the small sign to the Founders’ Hall.

The building towering over Bartholomew Passage, although renovated way after Smithfield stopped being a trading area, still offers the same shapes as some of the historic houses on Cloth Fair, the street perpendicular to the passage.

Pay attention to the huge plant pots at the bottom of the building; carved and made of metal, they are a reminder of the history of the Worshipful Company of Founders that used to be established there.

Read: 19 Unmissable East London Neighborhoods and Hidden Gems

Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: The Rising Sun Pub, Cloth Fair

Reach Cloth Fair from Bartholomew Passage, and you will be able to admire the Rising Sun pub, which is perfect to use as a secret photo spot, again, if you love architecture and history.

The traditional pub, and the neighboring Rising Sun Court, are two other historic places worth a visit, especially since the Rising Sun Court is one of the oldest locations in London, its charm mostly due to beautiful Victorian townhouses.

What makes the Smithfield neighborhood so interesting, as well, is that since it offers some of the narrowest – and prettiest streets in London, each of the hidden gems I’m sharing today are located really close to one another.

At the end of Rising Sun Court, you can spot the Smithfield Meat Market, one of the most important buildings in the area, but for now, let’s not go just yet, and instead, check out the oldest house in the City of London.

Read: 34 Secret Places in London You Won’t Believe Actually Exist

Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: 41-42 Cloth Fair, The Oldest House in the City of London

41-42 Cloth Fair is an admirable example of medieval architecture which has stood the test of time, fire and war.

Indeed, known as the oldest house in the City of London, 41-42 Cloth Fair survived the Great Fire of London of 1666, and the World War II Blitz, which decimated most of London at the time…

And which is the reason why we have so many gorgeous church gardens to visit in town.

The timber-framed facade and leaded windows, which are better appreciated from the St Bartholomew the Great churchyard facing 41-42 Cloth Fair, offer a fascinating glimpse into London’s history, a sight you absolutely cannot miss in Smithfield.

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Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: St Bartholomew the Great, a Medieval Church

When you are done admiring 41-42 Cloth Fair, turn around, cross the churchyard and admire St Bartholomew the Great church – both inside and outside.

One of the oldest medieval sites in London, the St Bartholomew the Great church is one of my favorite places to visit again and again, if only for its exquisite vaulted ceilings, which remind me greatly of the Gothic-style churches in Troyes, France, my hometown.

Something few people know about the St Bartholomew the Great church is that it also makes for one of London’s secret museums, as there are often exhibitions inside, including a mind blowing, golden Damien Hurst sculpture.

If you’re not familiar with the works of Damien Hurst, he for instance worked on the Greek slash Roman inspired sculptures in Bacchanalia as well as other London restaurants.

Those who enjoy a moment in aesthetic restaurants with sculptures and columns should check out Bacchanalia, and for another masterpiece, Damien Hurst’s ‘Exquisite Pain’ representation of St Bartholomew is another must-see in Smithfield.

Read: These Are The Cutest Bakeries in London for Delicious Pastries

Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: St Bartholomew Gate, Facing the Church

When leaving the gorgeous, oh so secret church, you will have the churchyard on your right, and the historic St Bartholomew Gate in front of you.

We will be leaving this enclave to reach the Smithfield Meat Market – as such, do make your way to St Bartholomew Gate to enjoy a bit more medieval architecture.

The West Smithfield gate was renovated at the beginning of the 20th century, and features carvings, pointed archways, and impressive stone walls as well as coats of arms and religious sculptures.

We’re almost in a Peaky Blinder or Harry Potter location; very much in line with the 41-42 Cloth Fair house, which makes you wonder about how the whole area must have looked in its prime.

Read: 15 Most Unusual Places to Visit in London For Free

Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: Club Gascon and Butchers Hook and Cleaver

When passing the St Bartholomew Gate, take a right and you will be able to see two of Smithfield’s must eat places:

• Club Gascon, a gorgeous Michelin star French restaurant,
• Butchers Hook and Cleaver, a British pub with incredibly rustic decor

Both of these buildings are also beautiful on the outside, and if you’re not hungry or have taken some of London’s cheap eats with you, keep walking to the meat market.

Read: 25 Magically Free Things to Do on London’s Central Line

Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: Smithfield Meat Market

The Smithfield Meat Market is less than 5 minutes away from the St Bartholomew Gate, and is another one of the oldest places in London, since it dates back to the 10th century.

And while you would think that with that kind of decor and wide arches, the Smithfield Meat Market is now an abandoned place, it is far from the truth as it is still used as a trading site for butchers and traders.

We have here one of the prettiest examples of Victorian architecture in London, with colorful and ornate ironwork and a high glass ceiling.

The addition of telephone booths, neatly lined up along the sides of the Smithfield Meat Market, make it one of London’s most secret photo spots, and one that only locals seem to cross.

Read:

Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: St John Street

Outside of the Smithfield Meat Market, St John Street is another great street to visit, if only to soak in the historic atmosphere.

This is where the line between West Smithfield and the Clerkenwell neighborhood begins to get blurry; as you keep going up the street, you find yourself in one of the coolest places in Clerkenwell, with restaurants, cafes and shops.

On the corner of St John Street, the Smithfield Tap pub is another must-see building, not only because of the sculptures on its sides, but also to be reminded, if only slightly, of the instagrammable NYC‘s Flatiron building.

Read:

Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: Charterhouse Street

A short walk away from all these instagrammable places is located Charterhouse Street, which offers more gorgeous buildings than you’ll see anywhere else in town.

Lovers of London’s dark academia places, Charterhouse Street is one where you will feel completely at ease, with colorful and brick building alternating all the way down to Charterhouse Square.

Again, we feel here the weight of centuries of change, with medieval, Georgian and Victorian highlights in the entire street.

Do spend some time admiring the Fox and Anchor pub – don’t forget to look up to enjoy the mosaic-like tiles and the many secrets hidden on the facade.

Read:

Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: The Charterhouse

Walking down Charterhouse Street leads you to The Charterhouse, a former Carthusian monastery established in the 14th century, which over time shifted into an almshouse, a school, and is still a residential place today.

If you are traveling to London on a budget and would be favorable to finding free spots to visit, The Charterhouse is not only rich in history, but also utterly gorgeous.

The garden, with the Tudor building in the background, makes for a great photo spot, but, by all means, do enter the Charterhouse.

You will find that it is here one of London’s free museums, and one most secret, with relics, sculptures, and even a small, beautiful chapel.

Read: The Best Colorful Lattes in London: 12 Independent Cafes on the Radar

Best Things to Do in Smithfield London: Charterhouse Square and Buildings

When you leave the Charterhouse, you will face the Charterhouse Square, which is a great place to write in London, read, or just have a picnic before you keep visiting the surrounding streets.

What makes the garden interesting, in addition, of course, to being one of London’s most secret gardens, are the surrounding Georgian townhouses.

These are perfect to photograph, or even just to admire autumn colors when the weather is changing.

Do not miss The Cottage house on Hayne Street, a white building with blue and green doors and windows – it almost feels out of place amongst the dark buildings around the Charterhouse, and is a beautiful sight!

Read: London’s Secret Camden Passage: History, Shops, Restaurants

Best Hidden Gems in Smithfield London: Kinghorn Street and Batholomew Place

Close to Hayne Street and the narrow Cottage House building, walking around the Smithfield area will also lead you to beautiful spots like Kinghorn Street and Bartholomew Place.

Bartholomew Place makes for one of the most secret courtyards in London, and can be found rather easily by entering the passageway under the Francis Polden & Co sign, a remainder of the electrical company established at the beginning of the 20th century.

The surrounding streets, as we go back closer to the Barbican neighborhood, with namely the Museum of London and the St Alphage church ruins, increasingly become more modern, while still retaining a very charming look.

Read: 20 Best Hidden Gems in East London from Secret Places to Food

The Curious Traveler’s Guide to Smithfield, London’s Forgotten Neighborhood

Thus finished the Curious Traveler’s guide to the Smithfield area, one of London’s secret neighborhoods, and one to add to your bucket list if you would like to dive deeper into the city’s rich past.

This is the kind of gorgeous neighborhood in which London as we know it now has started blooming, and one which, like Holborn or Barbican, is a must-visit for the curious mind.

Hopefully, you will have find lots of new free things to do with this guide, and I will see you soon for new, curious guides!

Until next time!

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